The Evolution of Sarees: From Traditional to Contemporary Styles

Are you someone who loves wearing sarees? But you don’t have much of its traditional history with you. Right? 

We think it’s crucial to learn about our culture and traditions to understand why people around us hold it so close to their hearts. 

Ask a potter about how they create pots and they will be excited like a little kid to tell you everything about it. 

You’ll ask a merchant about diamonds, or an artist about their painting. 

And you will ask a weaver about their sarees. As weavers, we take pride in creating sarees that go places around the world. It’s the culture that defines our Indian history. 

The saree is a timeless garment that holds a special place in Indian culture. It is not just a piece of clothing but a symbol of grace, tradition, and heritage. Worn by women across the country, the saree has been an integral part of Indian attire for centuries. Its significance goes beyond fashion. It represents the rich cultural diversity and history of India.

In this blog, we will explore the evolution of sarees from their traditional roots to Modern saree trends and styles. We will delve into how this elegant garment has adapted to modern trends while retaining its cultural essence. Join us as we trace the journey of the saree through time, highlighting its transformation and enduring charm. 

Historical Background of Sarees in India 

The historical significance can best be understood when we dissect the periods of civilisation all the way to the ancient times. 

Indus Valley Civilization

The origins of the saree can be traced back to the Indus Valley Civilization, which flourished around 2800-1800 BCE. Archaeological findings, such as terracotta figurines, depict women wearing draped garments that resemble the modern saree. These early forms of clothing were simple, unstitched pieces of cloth, draped elegantly around the body. The use of cotton, which was cultivated in the region, made these garments comfortable and suitable for the climate.

Vedic Period

During the Vedic Period (1500-500 BCE), the saree evolved into a more defined form. The single unstitched cloth, known as the ‘Antariya,’ became popular. It was typically worn with an upper garment called the ‘Uttariya’ and a waistband known as the ‘Kayabandh.’ This period also saw the introduction of intricate weaving techniques and the use of natural dyes, which added colour and patterns to the sarees.

Mughal Era

The Mughal Era (1526-1857) brought significant changes to saree designs. The Mughals, known for their exquisite craftsmanship, introduced luxurious fabrics like silk and brocade. They also brought in elaborate embroidery techniques such as Zardozi and Chikankari. The sarees from this period were characterised by rich textures, intricate patterns, and vibrant colours. The influence of Mughal aesthetics can still be seen in many traditional sarees today.

Colonial Period

The Colonial Period (1858-1947) marked another transformation in saree styles. The British influence led to the introduction of the blouse and petticoat, which became essential components of the saree ensemble. This period also saw the rise of the Bengal Renaissance, which popularised the ‘Bengali style’ of draping the saree. The saree became a symbol of national identity and resistance against colonial rule, with many women adopting it as a statement of cultural pride.


Post-Independence Era of Sarees 

Sarees are a Symbol of National Identity

After India gained independence in 1947, the saree became a powerful symbol of national identity and pride. Prominent women leaders, such as Indira Gandhi and Sarojini Naidu, often wore sarees, showcasing their elegance and cultural heritage. Indira Gandhi, India’s first female Prime Minister, was frequently seen in handloom sarees, which highlighted the importance of indigenous craftsmanship. Her choice of attire not only reflected her personal style but also promoted the rich textile traditions of India.

Sarojini Naidu, a freedom fighter and poet, also played a significant role in popularising the saree. Known as the “Nightingale of India,” she often wore sarees during her public appearances, emphasising the garment’s cultural significance. These leaders, among others, used the saree as a medium to express their solidarity with the Indian people and their commitment to preserving the nation’s heritage.

Regional Variations of Sarees in India 

India’s diverse culture is beautifully reflected in the various draping styles of sarees across different regions. Each state has its unique way of draping the saree, adding to the garment’s versatility and charm.

  1. Nivi Style (Andhra Pradesh and Telangana): The most common style is where the saree is pleated in the front and draped over the left shoulder.
  2. Bengali Style (West Bengal): Characterized by wide pleats and the pallu draped over both shoulders, often with a key ring or a bunch of keys tied to the end.
  3. Maharashtrian Style (Maharashtra): Known as the ‘Kashta’ or ‘Nauvari’ saree, it is draped in a way that resembles a dhoti, with the pallu tucked at the waist.
  4. Gujarati Style (Gujarat): The pallu is brought to the front over the right shoulder and spread across the chest.
  5. Mundum Neriyathum (Kerala): A two-piece saree, with the lower garment called ‘Mundu’ and the upper garment ‘Neriyathu,’ usually in white with golden borders.
  6. Madisar (Tamil Nadu): Worn by Brahmin women, it involves an intricate draping method that requires a nine-yard saree.

These regional variations not only highlight the saree’s adaptability but also celebrate India’s cultural diversity. Each style carries its own history and significance, making the saree a truly unique and cherished garment.


Contemporary Styles of Sarees in India 

Modern Innovations in Sarees 

In recent years, the saree has seen a fusion of traditional and modern designs, making it a versatile choice for various occasions. Designers are experimenting with fabrics, draping styles, and embellishments to create unique looks. Pre-draped sarees, which are easy to wear and save time, have become popular among the younger generation. These sarees often come with attached pleats and pallu, offering a hassle-free experience without compromising on style.

Another innovation is the use of unconventional fabrics like chiffon, georgette, and net, which add a contemporary touch to the traditional saree. These fabrics are lightweight and easy to manage, making them ideal for modern lifestyles. Additionally, sarees with contemporary prints and embellishments, such as sequins and beads, are gaining popularity. These designs blend the elegance of traditional sarees with the chic appeal of modern fashion.


Influence of Bollywood on Sarees 

Bollywood has always played a significant role in shaping fashion trends in India, and the saree is no exception. Iconic actresses like Madhuri Dixit, Sridevi, and Deepika Padukone have popularised various saree styles through their films. For instance, the “Mumtaz style” saree, named after the actress Mumtaz, became a sensation after she wore it in the movie “Brahmachari.” This style features a tightly draped saree with multiple pleats, creating a glamorous look.

More recently, movies like “Chennai Express” and “Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani” have showcased contemporary saree styles that appeal to the younger audience. Bollywood’s influence extends beyond the screen, with many actresses endorsing designer sarees at red-carpet events and fashion shows. This has helped in keeping the saree relevant and trendy, inspiring women to experiment with different styles and drapes3.


Global Influence on Sarees 

Sarees has also made its mark on the international fashion scene. Designers like Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Manish Malhotra have showcased their saree collections at global fashion weeks, earning accolades for their intricate designs and craftsmanship. Celebrities like Priyanka Chopra and Aishwarya Rai have worn sarees at international events, further popularising this traditional garment.

In addition, the saree has been embraced by fashion enthusiasts worldwide. It is not uncommon to see sarees being worn at multicultural events, weddings, and even fashion shows in countries like the United States, the United Kingdom, and Australia. The global appeal of the saree lies in its versatility and elegance, making it a favourite among women of different cultures.


Wrapping Up 

The saree’s journey through history is a testament to its enduring appeal and versatility. From its ancient origins in the Indus Valley Civilization to its evolution during the Vedic Period, the saree has always been more than just a garment. It has been a symbol of cultural identity, craftsmanship, and elegance. The Mughal Era added layers of opulence with luxurious fabrics and intricate embroidery, while the Colonial Period introduced the blouse and petticoat, transforming the saree into a more structured ensemble.

Post-independence, the saree became a symbol of national pride, with influential women leaders like Indira Gandhi and Sarojini Naidu showcasing its cultural significance. The diverse draping styles across different regions of India further highlight the saree’s adaptability and the rich cultural tapestry of the country.

In contemporary times, the saree continues to evolve, blending traditional designs with modern innovations. Bollywood has played a significant role in popularising various saree styles, making them accessible and trendy for the younger generation. The global influence of the saree is evident, with international designers and celebrities embracing this timeless garment.

Looking ahead, the future of the saree seems bright. As designers continue to experiment with fabrics, patterns, and draping styles, the saree will likely remain a beloved attire for generations to come. Its ability to adapt to changing fashion trends while retaining its cultural essence ensures that the saree will always hold a special place in the hearts of people, both in India and around the world.

In essence, the saree is not just a piece of clothing; it is a symbol of India’s rich heritage and cultural diversity. Its journey through time reflects the changing social and cultural landscape of the country, making it a timeless and cherished garment.